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Un surfista con il suo cane

“You gotta Wait for The Right One” Salt Water cures Everything

It is often said that “Salt water cures everything”, but besides being a cheesy sentence on t-shirts and gadgets, what exactly does that mean? How does this process work inside of you while you’re out there  in  the sea?

While surfing, the time you effectively spend standing on the board is actually the smallest part. Most of the time, you’re paddling around for waves, fighting to get back to the peak after every wave, and you also spend a lot of time in wait. While waiting, you have time to meditate, and think deeply.

Let me introduce you to a post I wrote on my Facebook wall some time ago. In that moment, I was traveling around Portugal  in a van with three good friends, whom I got to know while we were all working together during summer. Not long before this trip, I had just come out of an unlucky affair and still carried some bitter aftermaths.

Certain things require time, but this time, it was the sea that gave me the answer I was looking for.

Enjoy the reading.

The lesson of the sea

“Sea Lesson of the day:

 We get into the water and reach the peak after a long paddle against the current and the thick whitewash. It’s very tiring, and a single mistake such as picking the wrong wave, would mean being washed away and starting all over again.

 Edo yells at me:

 “You gotta wait for the right one!”

 The next Words I utter, came out of my mouth spontaneously, I yell back:

 “I’ve been waiting all my life!”

 A deep laugh follows.

 Once again, the ocean and the wave are the perfect synthesis of life: It’s not the wave that crushes you and hurts you that you should paddle for, it’s not the wave that closes out and wipes you away that you should be chasing after; but the wave that opens up and lets you race it at the same speed, the wave that wraps you and then let you out screaming is what you really want.

The ocean feels that you finally understood, and rewards you with one of the best barrels of your life “.

A surfer with a dog on the Beach. Sintra, Portugal.
Praia Grande – Sintra, Portugal
The cover image is not a drawing, but a picture I took that day, just after coming out of the water.

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